Saturday, October 12, 2013

Annapolis and Mount Vernon

The last two days were a classic example of "places to go and people to see."  We didn't let the constant rain on Friday deter us.  We started the day having breakfast with our niece Rylee, who is a senior at Catholic University in D.C.. Rylee chose the restaurant, a local eatery called "The Coupe" and Mike and I both thought our omelets just might have been the best we've ever had.  We had thought to go to Annapolis and Rylee's enthusiastic review of the city confirmed our decision.

The main street of Annapolis is a narrow, cobblestone lane that dead ends at the water.
Little did we know that the self-proclaimed "Sailing Capital of the World" was having a HUGE boat show this weekend. We could not see the Chesapeake Bay due to the conglomeration of large tents.  For a mere $10, we could have gotten inside the barriers (and come to think of it, out of the drizzle under those tents) but we declined.  Just as I wrote about "serious" hikers when out west, Annapolis was filled with "serious" sailors.  They were easily recognizable - yellow rain slickers, Sperry Top-Sider shoes and 99% of the men have beards!

Besides being the capitol of Maryland, Annapolis is home to the U.S. Naval Academy, which is a short walk from downtown.  The Academy was founded in 1845 and wears its age extremely well.  A lovely campus to stroll.  Our first stop was the Visitors Center, which came at just the right time.  We got out of the rain and Mike's hip was telling him to find a place to sit down.  Remember I mentioned the patriotic stirrings I feel being in this area?  Well, the first orientation film of this trip had that pot boiling over.  When the words and images of Honor - Courage - Commitment came on the screen, I was tearing up.  We owe so much to the brave men and women who serve our country.  I feel privileged to have visited the academies of all four of our service branches: The Air Force Academy in Colorado Springs, West Point in the Hudson River Valley, and the Naval Academy (home to both the Navy and Marines).

Just outside the visitors center, we got the view we missed downtown - the harbor.  While walking to the chapel to see the crypt of John Paul Jones (considered the father of our navy), we passed a midshipman in full uniform (those Navy blues are impressive), walking ramrod straight, carrying his shoulder pads and gear, obviously on his way to football practice.
We were a little disappointed at the chapel.  It was closed due to a wedding rehearsal, so we could only peek in the front windows.  Entrance to the crypt, which is under the chapel, was also closed.  The famous story about John Paul Jones is he was decisively overmatched in a sea battle in September of 1779.   His ship's flag went down more than once, and finally the other captain asked if he was surrendering.  Jones' response: "I have not yet begun to fight."

We spent the afternoon dodging raindrops in this quaint town where history is well-preserved.

Saturday brought family equality.  After seeing our niece on Mike's side on Friday, I drove one hour to Frederick, Maryland this morning to see our niece Jill (my sister's daughter) and her family.  It was a treat because I had never seen my two great-nephews in person.

With the skies overcast and an intermittent drizzle, we headed to George Washington's home - Mount Vernon.  The trucker log jam never materialized, but we did face traffic gridlock with the University of Maryland having a home football game against Virginia this afternoon.  The drive to Mount Vernon was about forty-five minutes and along the way we passed exits with familiar names: NASA, Bethesda Medical Center, Pennsylvania Avenue, Richmond, Walter Reed, Arlington, and Gettysburg to name a few.  (and once again - we are not going to the National Mall area of D.C. or Gettysburg because we have already been there).  I saw a license plate for a car registered in the District of Columbia. On the bottom of the plate it said, "Taxation Without Representation".  I thought it belonged to a disgruntled citizen but Mike said that is their motto!  And sure enough, I saw many others.

Once outside of Alexandria, Virginia, the 8 mile drive along the George Washington Parkway to Mount Vernon is a scenic one that follows the Potomac River.
When we arrived, the place was packed with people.  One of the guides told us that, due to the government shut-down and so many attractions in D.C. closed, Mount Vernon is averaging 3,000 visitors a day compared to the 500 who normally visit this time of year.

We enjoyed wandering the entire estate.  The home, outbuildings, and gardens are wonderfully maintained.  There always seemed to be a guide around to answer my many questions.  With 40% of the furnishings original to the house, it truly is an accurate reflection of the home life of the Father of our Nation.  (the fan, powered by his rocking chair in his office was ingenious!)  I found it fascinating that I was holding on to the same banister while climbing the stairs to the second story that Washington built, installed and held on to everyday.  Then of course I had to wash my hands because a gazillion other people have touched it, too!  Mike bought me the audio tour handset that describes the grounds and outbuildings (knowing how I devour the minutia those things provide) while he was satisfied with reading the informative signs everywhere.  The plantation was not just George and Martha's home.  It was a working farm that our first president loved.

Adding to the experience, there is an orientation center and excellent museum on the grounds.  The theme of the orientation film is "We Fight To Be Free" which reminded me of the phrase "Freedom isn't free".  I got choked up all over again. . .
The museum traced Washington's life from his birth in Virginia to his death in his bed on the second floor of the house.   The displays were every bit as informative and well-done as most modern-day presidential museums or libraries we have been to.  One whole room was devoted to his famous dentures!  At his first inauguration, he only had one tooth!

Also on the grounds is the Washington family tomb where, along with George and Martha, other members of their family are buried.  Martha was a widow with 2 children when she married George and they never had any children together, but many of George's nieces and nephews have Mount Vernon as their final resting place.
A short distance from the tomb is the Slave Memorial where 75 slaves that lived and worked on the estate are buried.  After leading our army in the Revolutionary War in our fight to be a free nation, Washington struggled with the concept of slavery.  In his will, his slaves were freed upon his death.

Robert Frost said this of Washington:  "George Washington was one of the few men in all of human history who was not carried away by power."   After the Revolutionary War, there were many who wanted to make him a king.  He resigned his commission in the army and returned to Mount Vernon, content to live out his days here.  But he answered the call of his nation once again when our new constitution called for an elected head of government.  He is the only president in history to be unanimously elected.  With his popularity, he could have continued on past two terms, but, in keeping with Frost's assessment of him, Washington refused to run again and eagerly resumed his work as a gentleman farmer.

We stayed at Mount Vernon until closing time, which prohibited us from driving to the Manassas or Antietam battlefields.  Manassas is the site of the first and second Battles of Bull Run and where Thomas Jackson got his nickname - Stonewall.  More soldiers died on a single day at Antietam than any other battle in our nation's history.  So much to do. . . so little time.  So we found an Irish pub in Old Town Alexandria for dinner and caught up with the football scores.

As I type we are watching the Tigers while listening to the rain ping off the roof of the RV!

Tomorrow we head to Richmond.

                                                             Breakfast with Rylee

                 The Middleton Tavern in Annapolis where Ben Franklin was a frequent patron


                     The immortal words spoken by James Lawrence before he died in battle in 1813



                                     Navy Chapel where both Protestant and Catholic services are held

                                                       The Navy Mascot - a goat!

                                                  Historic  Downtown Annapolis

                                                             Jill, Riyan and Gus


                                                    Mount Vernon visitors center


                         
                                 View from porch of Mount Vernon overlooking the Potomac

                                                       

                                                        Washington Family tomb

                                                   George on right, Martha on left
                                     



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