Meandering Magees: We Are In North Carolina!

Wednesday, May 16, 2018
Day 409
4,613 Loop Miles

A week ago we were in Florida. My last post was from Jekyll Island, Georgia. We stopped twice in South Carolina and are now in Southport, NC. We are trying to outrun the no-seeum bugs!

We left Jekyll and ran in the ocean 120 miles to Beaufort, SC. (pronounced BEW-fert). We decided not to stop at Savannah, GA. All four of us have been there, and while it is a nice city with lots to see, we didn't feel the need to re-visit. We also skipped Hilton Head Island for the same reason, although I thought it would be cool to get a picture of True North docked under the iconic red and white striped fake lighthouse at Harbor Town!

When we do the ocean runs, Mike and Greg are doing the navigating and driving duties, along with keeping an eye out for dolphins or turtles or whales. They pass the time listening to the VHF radio chatter. In one stretch they heard calls to the Coast Guard about loss of steering on a small fishing boat, a diver stung by a lion fish, and a fisherman was bit on the ankle by a wahoo he just landed!
During the long stretches, Karen reads and I knit.

We stayed at Port Royal Landing Marina and made use of the courtesy truck to drive the short distance into downtown Beaufort. Beaufort is the second oldest town in South Carolina, established in 1711. Charleston is the oldest. We passed stately antebellum mansions (circa 1800's) along the waterfront, and more modest older homes in their historical district. The city has a wonderful riverfront boardwalk and park. In celebration of their tricentennial in 2011, the city built a circular path around low stone monuments describing Beaufort's history. While in the Bahamas we learned of the British loyalists that left America during the Revolutionary War and settled in the Caribbean islands. The seed that became a source of wealth for this region - sea island cotton - came from those same loyalists. So when one of the markers said "Bahamian loyalists", I knew just what that meant! It was the beginning of the cotton revolution in the Old South.
At one time or another, cotton, rice and indigo made Beaufort one of the wealthiest counties in South Carolina. (the boll weevil ruined the cotton plants and a hurricane destroyed the rice plantations).

The "history of Beaufort" circle

Greg and Karen on the boardwalk

And taking advantage of a swing

that overlooks the river front. That is them on the left.

I love southern cooking - grits and collard greens and ribs and shrimp!

This is why they call South Carolina "the Low Country"

Beaufort is a charming little town and easy to see why many movies are wholly or partially filmed there including Forest Gump. It was also the location of the film versions of native son Pat Conroy's novels The Great Santini and Prince of Tides.

We only stayed in Beaufort one night which meant we didn't fit in a trip to nearby Parris Island - one of the most visited military facilities in the world. The water tower we passed coming in says it all - "We Make Marines". A large majority of the soldiers who fought in World War II were trained at Parris Island.

Mike is a slave driver and we left Beaufort at 6:15 am on Sunday morning, which meant getting the moisture off the isinglass flybridge enclosure at 6 am. The no-seeums are worse at that time than at dusk. But once on the water they disappeared and there is something very peaceful about that time of day.

Sunrise leaving Beaufort

On our 155 mile run to Georgetown, SC we skipped Charleston for all the same reasons previously mentioned. We pulled into Harborwalk Marina and only left the boat to walk to a Dollar General because we needed more bottled water. Didn't even walk into town after learning that Georgetown is the third oldest city in South Carolina. I now know more about South Carolina's history than I thought possible. I couldn't even tell you the 3 oldest cities in my home state!
We did have a nice chat with a couple from Oscoda, Michigan who are also doing the Loop. They have a unique looking boat named "rPad".

Another one night stay and we were off Monday morning for a 100 mile trip to Bald Head Island, North Carolina. A tip from Looper friends on Loofah (who we met in Bimini) led us to this gem of a stop. In fact, Sue and Art were there to catch our lines when we docked.
The immediate impression when entering the marina at Bald Head Island is of a New England seaside village. It is reminiscent of Mackinac Island in that you can only get to Bald Head by your own boat or a ferry out of Southport, which goes back and forth numerous times a day. Mackinac allows only bikes and horses. Here, golf carts take the place of the horses for transportation. (only commercial motor vehicles are allowed). Like Jekyll, Bald Head has excellent biking and walking paths. The island has 14 miles of sandy beaches and two golf courses which make it a popular tourist destination in the summer. (glad we were there before the busy season). Although we saw two small inns right next to the marina, the main housing choices on Bald Head are LARGE homes and condos for rent.

View from our slip

We followed the ferry into the marina. Easy way to know where to go!

We enjoyed docktails on Loofah and then Sue and Art joined us on True North as the guys barbecued wings on Monday night.

Our host Sue on Loofah. Art was taking the picture

This was a two night stop so after a rain shower on Tuesday we rented a golf cart and toured the island. The quaint, upscale marketplace area - 3 boutiques, a market, a spa, and a candy shop - was so unobtrusive you could go right past and miss it. No golden arches here! A large preservation area in the center of the island has been left undisturbed. Hence the sign: