Thursday, May 30, 2013

Yellowstone - Part 3






















We’ve had two busy, great days in Yellowstone.  While Mike was participating in a conference call for work Tuesday morning in the RV at the campground in Gardiner, (remember, he is semi-retired!) I drove the Jeep into Yellowstone to Mammoth Campground to see if we could get a spot.  We got in!  I made a quick stop at the post office inside Yellowstone at Mammoth Springs.  I tell our niece’s husband (who is a postmaster back in Michigan) that we are providing him with job security with all the postcards we send to the grandkids.  At least 2 each per week!

We had 2 hours to get the motorhome packed up, drive the 5 miles into the campground and get set up as Mike had another call at noon (local time).  There are no hook-ups at Mammoth.  Meaning no water, sewer or electricity.  We are allowed to run our generator from 8 am to 8pm.  The little thing we are thankful for today is that we do not need power to have heat and it is not warm enough outside that we would want to run the air conditioning.  The rest is a logistical thing.  I should have Mike write this part, but basically we run the generator right up to 8 pm and start it right up again at 8 am. to recharge everything (like the frig).  We don’t run it while we are gone during the day doing things, so we make sure we are back by 6 or 7 to run it for a while before the 8pm curfew. We do have water from our holding tank.  We don’t take long showers or I can’t do any laundry because it would drain our water tank and fill our gray water holding tank too quickly. (actually, no laundry is something to be thankful for, too!)

This is as “roughing it” as we get, folks.  In fact, many people will say what we do in the RV is not even really camping.  My brother Tim used to say his idea of camping is a Holiday Inn with a tree out front.  We are pretty close to that concept in our motorhome.  We have all the comforts of home. 
But we wanted to have the experience of camping inside Yellowstone and we are loving it.


While Mike was on his afternoon call, I went into the little “town” of Mammoth.  It has a hotel, restaurant, post office, medical clinic, justice building, gas station and general store, along with National Park services like a visitor center and the administration building where Janice works.  She told me to call her when I got there because an elk had a baby (probably the night before) and it chose to lie down by her car and she would show me.  The mom was out on the lawn, but the baby was right next to her rear tire!  Park personnel were keeping people away because the mom could get very upset.  I got as close as allowed and took the picture so I hope you can see it. 
Janice half-jokingly said she hoped the elk moves the baby along by noon because she had to leave for a doctor’s appointment in Bozeman with Bill.  She gave me a tour of her office and when I left I offered to give her a ride back into Gardiner if she needed it.  Sure enough, as I was at the register in the gift shop paying for my postcards, my phone rang and the baby had not moved.  Giving her a ride was the least I could do for everything her and Bill have done for us.  (more on that later).

Mike was free about 2, and acting on a tip from our Yellowstone expert (a.k.a. Janice) that bears had been sighted in Lamar Valley that morning, we took off.   The Lamar Valley was one of the areas we did not make it to the day before.
Before we even got to the “official Lamar Valley” area, we were treated to a show.  The bison must have listened to my comments about the safety of the buddy system (just call me The Buffalo Whisperer) because there was a parade!  With traffic stopped on both sides of the road, big bisons and baby bisons ran single file down the shoulder, coming toward us.  It was like when the circus came to town and they unloaded the elephants off the train cars and paraded them into town for advertising.  (I’m not that old to have personally witnessed that, I read it in a book).
I took pictures, and Mike has it on video.

Remember in my last post, after we saw a grizzly bear, Mike said he wanted to see a black bear?  Ask and you shall receive.  Or dreams really do come true.  Take your pick because farther up the road, traffic came to a halt again, with cars pulled over (there is very little shoulder on these roads, so when cars pull over, they are still partially blocking the road).  I jumped out and ran ahead to the crowd and asked, “What is it?”  A black bear!  I had a difficult time seeing it.  A nice gentleman was trying to point him out, to no avail.  I heard a group to my left say, “There it is” so I moved over a little, and there it was!  I looked back at the road and the Jeep was right behind me with Mike inside and he said he could see it.  He was a happy camper!

When traffic is at a dead stop, you know there is some sort of wildlife close.  Other times, cars will be pulled over and you look in the direction their heads or binoculars are pointed, wondering, “What are they looking at?” 
There was a large crowd, with cameras aimed at a hill.  Janice had told us about “wolf watchers” and this was just such a group.  These people are pros.  Their cameras are the size of bazookas, on tripods, many with camo coverings.  We walked up to someone with a regular camera around her neck and whispered, “What is it?”  The lady said she thought there was a den of baby wolves, although she had been there a while and had not seen anything.  The “pros” were saying the adult wolves would be coming back.  (2 hours later when we came back by, the cameras were still pointed at the hill, but nobody was looking through the lenses.  They were standing around talking.)

The Lamar Valley is a feast for the eyes.  I sure hope the parents of the little boy that was next to me at Old Faithful drove through this valley because there were buffalo EVERYWHERE.  Herds dotted the green valley, along with elk and pronghorns.
What a treat!

Right before we reached the northeast entrance of the park (or exit in our case), there were more cars pulled off to the side.  We even have to ask as we could see the bear down in a clearing.  We drove to a safe spot to pull over and walked back to see the black bear.    Again, I took pictures and Mike took a video.

We exited the park and one mile down the road was the town of Silvergate.  I think it might have 4 buildings.  But one was a general store so we stopped to get a bottled water.  When we got back in the car, we had to wait to leave for a bison that was walking behind the Jeep.

We were pumped with all the wildlife we had seen but the day was not over.  Driving back along the same road we just traveled, in a different spot the traffic was stopped again.  There was not only a black bear, but also 2 cubs!  We didn't have a good angle to take a picture, so you won't see the cubs. We sat in the car and watched as one was trying to get over a fallen log.  He or she made it.  It was so cute.

We got back to the RV in time to run the generator for an hour, turned it off at 7 and had dinner with Bill and Janice again.  This time they treated us to a wonderful meal at their home in Gardiner.  Bill grilled brats that he had made himself – delicious!  Janice told stories about happenings in Yellowstone – some good and some tragic.  When we left she said for us to have fun, but she didn’t want to see our names on the Daily Report.  This would be a report that chronicles incidences the prior day in the park.  We figured that would be like when each of our kids opened their first checking account at the bank and Mike would warn them – “I don’t want to see your name on the Overdraft List!”

Since we couldn’t start the generator until 8 am on Wednesday morning, it was the perfect excuse to sleep in until then.  Not that I need an excuse to sleep in, but I’ll take it!  (Mike was up at 6:30).  It was raining, and the forecast was rain all day.  So once again, nature had a hand in determining what to do.  We opted for the Lamar Valley again as we saw so much without having to get out of the car the day before and planned to exit the park again at that northeast entrance and try the Beartooth Pass.  This is a scenic drive of switchbacks rising to an elevation of over 10,000 ft.  Bill and Janice told us about it at dinner the first night and a couple at the next table overheard them and the guy came over and chimed in with his endorsement.  Charles Kuralt called it America’s most scenic drive.  (my kids are saying, “Who’s Charles Kuralt?”)  But most of you reading this are over 45 years old and should remember the CBS newsman who did “On the Road with Charles Kuralt”.  He crisscrossed the United States in an RV looking for stories about extraordinary people and places.  I guess you could say we are following his footprint with all the wonderful places we have seen.

If we didn’t see anything else today, we would have been more than satisfied with all the different wildlife we experienced at Yellowstone.  But just to put a marchino cherry on top of our whipped cream, we came across another herd of bison in the valley.  But this time, we watched several of them enter the river to cross it.  We witnessed them struggle against the strong current with just their large heads above water and emerge on the other side. 

I said that I am slow to see things, but I was proud of myself when I spotted an osprey eagle perched on a tree limb.  We could see it with our naked eyes, but got a really good look with the binoculars.
A sign as we exited the park on to the Beartooth Highway (which leads to the Pass) said the Pass was closed due to weather. We decided to continue as far as we could in hopes of seeing what everyone raved about.  We got 17 miles.  By now it was snowing quite hard.  We knew we were high up and got a small glimpse of the promise of what the views on Beartooth Pass would be like.

Heading back to Mammoth, we came across that sure-fire sign that something worthwhile was ahead.  We pulled up next to a car that was pulled over.  The guy rolled down his window, so I rolled down mine and he said, “There is a bear!”  He sounded as excited as we did every time.  This bear was much closer to the road.  A few cars prevented me from getting a good picture, but we both got great looks.  As we drove away, I looked behind as saw the bear running down a hill!

We stopped at the Visitor Center at Mammoth and the rain had let up some, so we decided (or I should say I suggested) to go to the Norris Geyser Basin.  This really would be the last part of Yellowstone that we hadn’t seen.  The Norris Basin is home to the park’s largest geyser – Steamboat.  We walked back to it.  The display said it’s eruption time frame is anywhere from 4 days to 50 years!  Mike said he wasn’t waiting around that long.  To me, that just shows the miracle of Old Faithful. 
When Steamboat does erupt, its height is two to three times that of Old Faithful.
We also walked around a large part of the geyser basin, seeing all shapes and sizes of hydrothermal features.  The rain came back, but again, we were really happy with what we did see, even if we didn’t see it all.

We are back at the motorhome in time to fix dinner before the generator goes off.  Dessert tonight is going to be Blue Fairways Sundaes.  While on a boat trip with Greg and Karen (brother and sister-in-law), we invented these sundaes and christened them with the name of Greg’s boat.  As Mike and I listened to Willie Robertson’s audio book on this trip, Willie would share a recipe at the end of every chapter, so I’ll share this recipe with you:
Break up a Klondike ice cream bar in a bowl.  Add sliced bananas and crushed strawberries.  Top with whipped cream.

Since this post is quite lengthy already, I’ll put down some final thoughts about Yellowstone Thursday or Friday.  We leave Thursday morning for our windshield wiper appointment in Billings, Montana and on to Cody, Wyoming from there.
Willie also shared a scripture verse at the beginning of every chapter and these came to mind today:
“In the beginning, God created the heavens and the earth.”
“And God said, ‘Let the land produce living creatures according to their kinds; livestock, creatures that move along the ground, and wild animals, each according to its kind.’  And it was so.  God made the wild animals according to their kinds, the livestock according to their kinds, and all the creatures that move along the ground according to their kinds.  And God saw that it was good.”
Genesis 1:1, 24 -25.

Lots of pictures from the last two days:  Janice’s car with the baby elk by the rear tire; boxes in the campground from people in tents to keep their food from attracting bears; the buffalo parade; the first black bear;  an example of how people gather to look at something.  This was at the wolf hill; two shots of the second black bear; the bison behind our car - see our bike tires; a look at Mammoth Hot Springs; our RV in the campground;  an example of people who are REALLY roughing it;  close-up of a baby bison; the bison crossing the river; the snow on Beartooth Pass; stopped for lunch in Silvergate.  In our quest to “eat local”, this is what we get!” close-up of a bull elk; 3 pronghorn; Mike at Steamboat geyser; me at the geyser basin; and the varied colors in the basin.

Tuesday, May 28, 2013

Elk and Bison and Bears, Oh My!
























Oh boy . . . where do I start?  You may want to put your feet up – this post may take a while.  Yellowstone is so large.  It is really three separate areas that are vastly different.  We entered the park today at 7:30 in the morning and got back to our RV at 7 in the evening and did not see everything.  Good thing we have two more days!

Many of you have been to Yellowstone so I hope the pictures recall great memories.  I also hope my descriptions do it justice.  I feel a little pressure to “get it right” as this national park is probably the most famous and most visited.

I mentioned in the last post that Old Faithful was over 50 miles into the park.  You have to double that time-wise because the maximum speed limit within the park is 45 mph and often you are going slower than that because of the curves or approaching busy viewpoints and the scenery.  So just getting from place to place is a lot of driving.

The first area we went to was the hydrothermal.  This includes Old Faithful, but encompasses so much more.  Old Faithful isn’t even the largest or most regular geyser in the park, just the most well known as it erupts more frequently than any of the other big geysers.  The largest concentration of geysers in the world is at Yellowstone in the Upper Geyser Basin, where Old Faithful is located.  You don’t have to look hard to find it.  When you walk into the Old Faithful Visitor’s Center, the back wall is solid glass windows facing the geyser.  And a large sign in the middle tells the next expected eruption time.  (the rangers also post predicted eruption times for 4 other geysers).  We saw it erupting when we drove in the parking lot, so had to wait about 70 minutes to see it go again.  This gave us time to see the excellent displays and a 13-minute film.  The displays did a great job explaining the different hydrothermal features: hot springs, mudpots, fumaroles, travertine terraces and geysers.  By the end of the day, we had seen examples of all 5.

Back to Old Faithful – we had a front row seat, literally, as they have several rows of bench seating in a semi-circle around the geyser.  The crowd was very large, so I was glad to be in front and not be stuck behind taller people that would hinder my view.  Everyone was anxiously waiting, looking at their watches for the 11:18 anticipated eruption time.  I was sure it would be like Fourth of July fireworks, with oohs and aahs and a round of applause at the end of the spouting.  Nope.  She erupted, everyone snapped a bazillion pictures and when it was over they walked away.  Old Faithful didn’t disappoint me.  The crowd did!  The spouting lasts anywhere from
1 ½ to 5 minutes.  I took pictures and Mike did a video.  I would say the main, large spout was a minute and a half, but it does take several minutes to wind down to just steam coming out of the opening.
There are several trails behind Old Faithful from which you can see many other smaller geysers.

Driving along we were constantly on the lookout for wildlife.  I felt like the girl in  “The Exorcist” as my head was spinning in all directions, not wanting to miss anything.  Mike actually spots things more often than I do, and he’s driving!  Elk and bison are the easiest to see, as you could tell from the pictures on the last post.  Almost every bison we saw was by itself, most often lying down.  They obviously don’t grasp the buddy system concept! (at Old Faithful, a family with 2 small boys was right next to us.  The youngest boy was getting impatient waiting for it to spout and kept saying, “I just want to see buffalo!)

From Old Faithful, it was 39 miles to the South Entrance of the park.  We headed that way, in hopes of seeing the Tetons.  With having to get our wiper blade replaced, we had to take a day off our schedule and going down to Jackson Hole, Wyoming was the destination that got scratched.  We thought if we could just get a glimpse of the range we would be happy.  Once at the South Entrance, a sign said Grand Teton National Park was only 29 miles further.  We decided to go for it (how can you be 29 miles away and not?), mainly because we were out of Yellowstone and back to a regular speed limit.

We were so glad we did!  The Grand Teton National Park is one of those drive through parks like the Redwoods.  Just after passing the entrance sign, we saw traffic from both directions stopped and people on the road.  This is always a sure sign that SOMETHING has been spotted.  Sure enough, cameras were all pointed up the hill and there was a grizzly bear!  All the visitor guides tell you NOT to stop in the middle of the road if you see something, but proceed to the next pullover area.  We had no choice because the cars in front of us were stopped (you have to be thankful for the little things. . . ).  We might not have ever seen the bear, as there was a lake on the other side of the road that we were looking at.

About a mile farther down was a good spot to pull over and we got a great view of the Grand Tetons.  A display there showed a map of the park and the range is not that big, so what we could see was about it.  We know there would have been lots more cool stuff to do and see in Jackson, but we were satisfied with seeing the Tetons tower over the lake.  It really was pretty.  And a bear!  Doubly blessed!
Now all Mike is talking about is seeing a black bear.

We headed back north into Yellowstone and explored the second area – Yellowstone Lake.  Actually before we got to that lake, we drove along the shore of Lewis Lake.  I can’t wrap my mind around the fact that a few miles away the ground is spouting hot water and hot steam and you can’t walk on it.  Yet in the lake area, the quiet waves are lapping the shore right next to the road.
Yellowstone Lake is the largest lake above 7,000 ft. in North America.  It has 141 miles of shoreline, if that helps you picture how big it is.  Adding to the beauty are the Absaroka Mountains as a backdrop.  The park allows boating (even renting boats) and fishing on Yellowstone Lake.
While driving around the lake, we came across more cars pulled over and people out pointing in the woods.  By the time we could pull over and walk back to the crowd, it was too late.  They all saw a large gray owl perched on a tree in a small clearing.  It flew away just as I was approaching.

Our last destination for Monday was the Grand Canyon of Yellowstone.  Here we saw several waterfalls and topography that was so totally different from the lake area and the geyser basin areas.  For 19 miles we drove along the canyon rim, stopping many times along the way to look WAY down and see the Yellowstone River running along the canyon floor.  At one viewpoint, there was an osprey eagle’s nest with the bird roosting.  I’m not that smart –a ranger came to take pictures of the nest and I asked him what kind of bird it was.

The last stretch of road that took us back to Mammoth Springs, where we started, was just opened in the last few days.  We could see why.  Snow was piled 3 feet high on the sides.  Several trails off this road were still closed.

It was a long, but really interesting day.  And thanks to Uncle John, who filled our freezer with homemade stew before we left, I didn't have to cook! We went through several seasons – on our way to Old Faithful it was 38 degrees and spitting snow.  My souvenir from Yellowstone is a jacket and knitted gloves.  I had to buy a large enough size jacket to fit over the t-shirt, long-sleeved t-shirt, fleece shirt and hoodie that I was wearing. 
And just when I thought I needed to break out my sunglasses, it started to slightly rain as the temp had risen to 51.  By the time we got back to the RV, it was in the low 60’s!

The pictures today are a hodge podge.  I'm sorry they are not in order.  They download to my laptop in the order I take them on my phone camera.  Today, Mike took some with his camera and I had to email them to me and put on the laptop.  That got them all out of whack.  I'm sure someone who knew what they were doing would know how to rearrange them, but I don't!  So, in no particular order:  Roaring Mountain; Old Faithful sign; Mike took this picture of me trying to walk on fallen logs at Lewis Falls.  My destination was a large rock that I thought would be a Kodak spot.  I didn’t make it that far!;  a hot spring;  Fountain Paint Pots (a mudpot); Mike taking a video of the mudpots; Spasm Geyser; bison on the side of the road; a neat quote in the Old Faithful Visitor Center; Old Faithful!; Entrance to Grand Teton National Park; THE BEAR!; the Tetons overlooking Jackson Lake; we passed over the Continental Divide 3 times in our drive around Yellowstone.  This sign was the lowest elevation of the 3; me at Yellowstone Lake; Mike at the Yellowstone Grand Canyon; the osprey nest (I hope you can see it); another canyon view; us at Inspiration Point!; a good explanation of the geology of Yellowstone; a view of the valley, the canyon and the mountains; entrance sign; me walking on a boardwalk through a hydrothermal area.  I told Mike to hurry and snap the picture because the air has a strong sulfur smell! 

Sunday, May 26, 2013

Yellowstone National Park













A quick “Hello” from Yellowstone National Park!  Fast Fact:  Yellowstone is the first national park – established in March, 1872.
 It was less than a 2-hour drive Sunday morning from Bozeman to Gardiner, the gateway town to Yellowstone at the northwest entrance.  We loved the drive once we turned south off I-90.  The next hour had us following the Yellowstone River with no mountains – just an even, 2-lane road lined with ranches and more fly-fishing places.  The Yellowstone River seemed to be heaven for kayakers and fly-fishermen.

We are at the Rocky Mountain RV Park in this quaint little town of Gardiner.  After getting set up, we still had a good part of the afternoon left and we couldn’t wait to get into the park.
I have to admit, the weather in Seattle, plus the long drive on Thursday (when we broke the wiper), and sleeping in the Wal-Mart parking lot left us both a little weary.  At one point on Friday Mike said it would be a 28 hr. drive home, and home was sounding pretty appealing. 

But we got to Yellowstone and immediately our batteries became recharged.  Maybe it was the easy drive in.  Or the nice campsite we have. Or the fact that when Mike backed the RV into our spot perfectly (first time we haven’t had a pull-thru) without having to do any adjusting, the guy said he should hire Mike to park other people’s RV’s.  Whatever the cause, we are so excited to be here.  When telling people about our adventure plans before we even left, we would always mention Yellowstone and Mt. Rushmore as places we had never been to and if we didn’t see anything else, we would get to these two places.  So it is like the feeling we had on the beach in California – we made it!

We naively thought we would drive right to the “big show” – Old Faithful.  When we entered the park we discovered it was another hour and a half to get there and we had dinner plans at 6 so we just did some driving around and scoping out the campground we hope to get into on Tuesday.  Just the little bit we saw makes us anxious for Monday morning!   As you can see from the few pictures today, we did get out at several spots.

Our dinner plans were with Janice and Bill Laye.  Janice is Aunt Leslie’s sister and she has worked at Yellowstone for 27 years.  She is the executive assistant to the Superintendent of the Park.  (I hope I got that title right.  She said she got a promotion last year!)  Janice is originally from Michigan, but Bill was born and raised out here.  We ate at a great local spot – Cowboy’s.  While Janice was giving me expert advice about everything we should see and do in Yellowstone and beyond, Bill and Mike talked about hunting and the outdoors.

We plan to get an early start Monday morning, as there is so much to see and do!

Pictures today are:  a Montana state road sign - an arrowhead.  If the State of Michigan has a suggestion box, I’m going to write a note that we need to designate our state roads by the outline of the mitten!;  The Roosevelt Arch at the northwest entrance to Yellowstone.  The little speck on the left side is me. The cornerstone of the arch was laid by Teddy Roosevelt in 1903.  Visitors would arrive in Gardiner by train, climb into horse-drawn coaches and enter the park through this arch;   elk in the campground we hope to move to on Tuesday!;  a bison near the bathrooms at a picnic area.  We almost missed him and think many others didn’t see him as no one was taking pictures;  us at Canary Spring.  It looks like ice, but it is a hot spring.  I can't wait to learn more about all this at the visitor centers tomorrow.;  an unobstructed view of Canary Spring;  what the spring looks like from the top;  these warning signs are all over the boardwalks through the hydrothermal areas.  I am older, and hopefully a little wiser, so I did not touch the water, but just put my hand near the surface and could feel the heat;  our view out our front window at the campground;  with Janice and Bill; and a picture from the backseat as Janice was taking us back after dinner!