We were purposely trying to avoid downtown Nashville as the Titans were playing a home game against the Cleveland Browns and knew traffic would be a mess. We did get caught up in it a little as we were leaving The Red Bicycle and saw the Tennessee State Capitol in the opposite direction we needed to go. But we were that close and drove by the impressive structure that sits high up on a hill. (I said, "How do they mow the grass on that steep slope?" and Mike said, "How do they walk up to work everyday?")
Twelve miles outside of Nashville is The Hermitage - home of Andrew Jackson, 7th President of the United States. We spent several beautiful autumn hours touring the home and grounds. There was a Fall Fest going on (the Hermitage covers over 1,000 acres) and on our 5 minute walk back to the home we smelled kettle corn and hot dogs and heard live performers singing - what else - country music.
The Hermitage is the fourth most-visited presidential home, following the White House, Mt. Vernon and Monticello. We are happy to say we've seen all 4. And I'm not sure, but I would think Lincoln's home in Springfield, Ilinois would be 5th and we've been there, too.
We couldn't recall much about Jackson's life, other than he was President, so most everything we learned was new and interesting. Our information came from an orientation film, displays in the visitor center, a self-guided audio tour of the grounds and period-dressed tour guides inside the house.
Andrew Jackson was born in South Carolina on March 15, 1767 to poor Irish immigrants. His father died before he was born and his mother and 3 brothers died during the Revolutionary War, leaving him an orphan at the age of 15. When he was 13, he acted as a courier during the war, was captured by the British and badly mistreated. After the war he moved to Tennessee, the edge of the American West and "the Wild Frontier". Jackson continued in the military and became famous across our young country as the victorious commander in the Battle of New Orleans during the war of 1812.
In 1824, the national hero was nominated for the presidency. He won the most popular and electoral votes, but did not have a majority. So the election was sent to the House of Representatives, who chose John Quincy Adams. Jackson ran again in 1828, and defeated Adams to become the 7th President of the United States. He brought a rough and tumble atmosphere to the White House that didn't sit well with the Washington elite. (Even in the 1800's there were snobs!) This didn't stop him from being re-elected in 1832 after having founded the Democratic Party.
There were several important issues during Jackson's years in office. Talk of states seceding from the Union didn't originate in Lincoln's time over slavery. It began almost 40 years earlier when the people of South Carolina threatened to invoke nullification over a federal tariff passed during the earlier administration. Jackson's famous statement at the time: "Our Federal Union, it must be preserved."
President Jackson also supported and signed the Indian Removal Act, which forcibly relocated Native Americans from their land to territory farther west. (what is now Oklahoma). This has come to be called The Trail of Tears.
And lastly, close to our hearts, Michigan became a state during Jackson's years in office!
Several firsts are associated with Andrew Jackson. He was the first president to ride a train, the first president to be a prisoner of war, and the first president to be photographed. He was also the last president to have personally known all the preceding presidents.
Andrew Jackson's marriage to Rachel Donelson in 1791 was somewhat of a scandal. One that with todays media scrutiny and social networking would have assured that he would never become president. Rachel had been married and was still married when she and Jackson exchanged their vows. Some will say that they thought her divorce was final, but most agree they knew otherwise. The couple underwent a second ceremony in 1794. The circumstances surrounding the two weddings was used against Jackson in his presidential campaigns, calling Rachel an adulterer and bigamist. (slinging mud is obviously not a new concept!) From the letters we saw on our tour, and eyewitness stories that were written down, Rachel and Andrew were deeply in love and devoted to one another. Rachel died one month after Jackson was elected president. When he retired to the Hermitage after leaving office, he walked to her grave every day, staying for half and hour and wore mourning clothes the rest of his life.
They had no biological children, but adopted a nephew of Rachel's, who became Andrew Jackson, Jr.
The Jackson's purchased land outside of Nashville in 1804 and called it the Hermitage. They moved into a log cabin on the property. Under Rachel's direction (because Andrew was away so often on military and then political business) the 420 acres farm grew to the largest cotton plantation in Tennessee. In 1821, a brick mansion was completed just yards from the log cabin and Andrew and Rachel welcomed all visitors and entertained often. After he became president, Jackson had the mansion remodeled, adding a larger dining room on one side and an office on the other. This is the house we saw. We were able to tour the entire building, but could not take pictures inside. We also saw the log cabin, Rachel's beautiful gardens filled with herbs, vegetables and flowers and the tomb where the Jacksons are buried. "Old Hickory", as Jackson was called, died in his bed at the Hermitage on June 8, 1845. That is probably more than you ever cared to know about Andrew Jackson!
On our way back to our campground we stopped at the Gaylord Opryland Hotel and Convention Center. This is the largest continuously connected hotel complex I've ever seen. We went specifically to see the indoor gardens. Simply amazing! Walkways take you from the Cascades to the Magnolia Conservatory to the Delta Waterway(where you can tour the whole thing on a boat). Opryland is right next to the Grand Ole Opry, but we didn't have time to walk around it before our show on Friday.
Tired from walking the plantation and then Opryland gardens, and to avoid the traffic, we chose not to go back downtown for dinner. This meant a choice of several places close to the campground. When we pulled up to The Nashville Palace, I was a little hesitant because the music coming out was OLD country (the sound of an accordion is a dead give-away) and, well, one can only take so much honky with their tonk! But being tired and hungry, we went in. Shortly after sitting down, before our food came, the bass and fiddle and accordion player were joined by a strong, sultry, Crystal Gayle-like voice singing "Blue Bayou" and we were suddenly sorry to see their set end! The voice belonged to Wendy Newcomer and her song (that she wrote) "One Prayer Left" sealed the deal and we bought her CD.
We would recommend Nashville to all. It is more than just country music, although there is plenty of that. There truly is something for everyone: museums (military and music) the Frist Center for the Visual Arts, world-class dining, a symphony, beautiful green spaces, sporting events, and buy one, get two free boot offers!
Today we are putting on our blue suede shoes and walking in Memphis. (no, we are not walking TO Memphis). If Elvis is not at the Burger King in Kalamazoo, we are going to find him at Graceland.
(maybe you have to be from Michigan to get that!)
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