Wednesday, June 19, 2013

The Road Leads Home


Before I start to wrap up these past 3 amazing months, we had 3 great surprises today.  Matt showed up at the campground about 9 am.  And he brought foo-foo coffee! (Starbucks).  We thought he came to help wash the RV, but he had to get home to mow the lawn before we get there on Wednesday.  He stayed just long enough to see our niece Deni and granddaughter Payton pull up, something he orchestrated.  What a joy to see them!  The hugging didn’t stop there as nephews Logan and Sean and niece Kendra came for dinner.  The best part of returning home after an extended absence is seeing loved ones.  And Michael, Gavin and Shaylon are next at the top of that list.

Now. . . where to start?  As Julie Andrews sang in “Sound of Music” – “Let’s start at the very beginning.  A very good place to start. . . “
First and foremost, we are fully aware, and humbly acknowledge, that this adventure was a gift from God.  A gift of the time to do it, a gift of the good health to do it, and a gift of the resources to do it.  Looking back, before we left we did not truly comprehend what wonders we would find.  The journey was SO MUCH MORE than crossing things off a “bucket list”.
We are beyond thankful.

Three months seems like a long time, but we certainly didn’t visit all the states west of the Mississippi.  We didn’t even see all the interesting things in the states we did go to.  But we are not going to regret the places we didn’t get to; we are grateful and thrilled with how much we did see and do.

Guess how many miles we traveled?  (I should have bought a tacky souvenir along the way for a prize and had an actual guessing contest!)  Give up?  When we pull into our driveway on Wednesday, the motorhome will register 7,861 miles since we left Zephyrhills, Florida on April 3rd.  The Jeep’s mileage is even more amazing.  When it is towed behind the RV, the odometer doesn’t turn.  So the 8, 247 miles we put on were all day trips after we were set up in a campground!  That is a total of 16,108 miles!  We have the sore bottoms to prove it!  And thousands of bugs from all across the country have met their demise on our windshields.  I counted them every time we washed the motorhome and Jeep.  Mike says our greatest achievement on the trip is that after 16,108 miles of being together 24/7, we still like each other!

We held firm on our desire to stay away from chain restaurants.  (Our last stop in Galena tested that resolve as the campground was right next to a Culver’s.)
In every state we supported local restaurants, diners and pubs.  We bought cookies from Girl Scouts in Arizona and popcorn from Boy Scouts in Utah.  We had the Jeep washed in Louisiana by a high school class raising money for a field trip.  I purchased several hand-made items from a Native American woman in New Mexico.  We are bringing home beer brewed in Oklahoma, wine from Napa Valley, huckleberry jam from Montana, caramel corn from South Dakota and BBQ sauce from Kansas City.  The majority of the campgrounds we stayed in were family owned and operated.

We’ve watched more orientation films and filled our heads with more trivia than we will be able to recall if we are ever asked to appear on Jeopardy.  The number of people who rent RV’s out west surprised us.  “Cruise America” and “Cruise Canada” Class C motorhomes are everywhere.  (That’s a good thing, by the way. It means families are vacationing).  So many more than we see in Michigan.    Traveling down the road we passed a variety of forms of power; oil refineries, rural electrical co-operatives, hydroelectric facilities, ethanol plants, lazily turning wind turbines and horse-drawn buggies.

It was stressful driving and our fuel mileage was terrible climbing the steep, twisting roads in the mountains, but I miss seeing them already.  We don’t miss the wind.
We stopped at every state welcome center we came upon, and found the staff to be just that, extremely welcoming.  When we drove past churches and schools, it was a reminder that no matter where you live, community life revolves around such things.  Signs in front of churches invited us to attend and my favorite school mascot was in Cody, Wyoming, where the high school proudly announced it was the home of the Broncs and Fillies.

We had several things on the RV that needed to be repaired or replaced over the three months.  Nothing was major enough to end our trip or strand us somewhere for several weeks.  Having the “check engine” light come on back in Florida was a blessing in disguise.  The motorhome never would have handled the mountainous driving without getting the turbo-thingy fixed.  We were so happy with how it ran.

Much of our adventure involved logistics.  Mike handled that part.  Choosing places to go and things to do was another part.  Let’s just say that bowling ball was right up my alley.  Mike is the oldest of 7.  He inherited the responsibility gene.  I’m the youngest of 7.  I got the fun gene.   (I can almost see my siblings shaking their heads in agreement).  Mike said he got to the point that he knew if there were 2 hours left in the day, I would find something to fill them – there was always one more place we could stop and visit.

The natural thing is going to be for people to ask us, “What was your favorite part of the trip?” (Mike says my answer better not be the week he was back in Michigan and I was in St. George, Utah by myself!)

Please don’t ask!  How do you choose between the majesty of the Court of the Patriarchs at Zion, the orange hoodoos of Bryce Canyon, the beauty of El Capitan and the waterfalls at Yosemite, the unbelievable diverse areas and wildlife at Yellowstone, the rugged coastline of the Pacific Ocean from California to Washington, the colors of the Painted Desert, the quiet of the Badlands, the magnificent mountain ranges, or standing in awe under a giant sequoia or redwood?
It’s impossible. 

You notice that everything mentioned above was created by God.  We talked often on the trip that the beauty we saw at almost every turn was natural.  God’s handiwork cannot be adequately described in a blog post.  America is so interesting.  We have seen “spacious skies, amber waves of grain, purple mountains majesty above the fruited plain.”  You have to discover it for yourself.  Every state is unique, including the one you live in. If you were just humming along to “America The Beautiful”, try Chris Tomlin’s “How Great is Our God”.  It conveys how we feel.

Thank you, also, to those of you, family and friends, that said “Let us know where you are going and what you are doing.”.   Little did I dream that we would be here, 48 blog posts later.  I would not have thought to do a blog, and now, while trying to paint a picture for you with words, we have a detailed journal of our travels.  Another gift.  



So – Wednesday is home.  Beyond seeing our family, there are several things I am looking forward to.  Mike got a haircut back in Missouri.  Guys can do that.  Girls don’t let just anyone mess with their hair.  I look like a shaggy dog.  I have had to hack away at my bangs several times just to be able to see.  When I knew for sure when we would be home, I called my hair gal in Ionia on Monday to ask, “We will be back in Ionia on Wednesday.  How soon can you get me in?”
Mike says he has gotten so used to our bed in the RV that he may go out and sleep in it once we are back.  (we park the RV right next to our house).  Not me.  He will probably have to drag me out of our bed on Thursday morning.  I’m excited to see what flowers and shrubs are in bloom in our yard.  My watch, which I kept on Michigan time, is now correct.  I no longer have to subtract 1 or 2 or 3 hours to know the local time.  I can stop looking for Michigan license plates in every parking lot or on every car that passes us.  I’m surrounded by them now. 

Of course, the first time the lawn needs to be mowed, or the house cleaned, or the weeds pulled, we are going to wish we were back on the road.                                          

But for now, Dorothy probably said it best:  “There’s no place like home.”

“The Lord bless you and keep you;
The Lord make his face shine upon you and be gracious to you;
The Lord turn his face toward you and give you peace.”     Numbers 6:22-26



                                                       Another state sign on the drive home


        Entering Michigan!  I personally like our old state welcome sign - "Great Lakes, Great Times" but this one looked really good to us on Monday!


                                                   A fitting symbol at the welcome center


                        Our Little Miss Payton helping her Papa and Nana wash the RV


Kendra, Logan and Sean           

Sunday, June 16, 2013

Is this heaven? No, it's Iowa


First off – Happy Father’s Day to all the Dads!

After Kansas City, we had a choice to make.  We have scratched off everything on our “must see or do” list, and we still had about a week and a half before we needed to be home.  We decided to put off going back to  “real life” another week and started looking at the map for a place to just relax for a few days.  No agenda, no leaving the motorhome first thing in the morning and returning to it after dark.  In other words, just to camp, and not any sightseeing.

While I was looking for campgrounds, my gaze fixed on a small red dot in Iowa – the Field of Dreams.  Yes, this is technically a tourist thing, but yet so different, as you will see below.  Once I talked Mike into going to this farm in Iowa, I began the search for campgrounds.  Surprisingly, there are very few in the area, even though the Field is within 30 miles of Dubuque.  I thought camping right next to the Mississippi River would be cool, but couldn’t find one that was “big-rig friendly”.  So, encouraged by Josh that a small town of Galena, Illinois, just across the river from Dubuque was a neat place, I focused on that area.  Again, I was amazed at the lack of campgrounds.  There was one, so I booked us for 4 nights over Father’s Day weekend. 

We left Kansas City on Thursday, driving through Missouri, into Iowa and across the Mississippi.  We had crossed this mighty river heading west back on April 4 in Louisiana, and now did the same, traveling east from Iowa into Illinois.  The site the campground gave us didn’t work.  There was a berm behind it and we couldn’t back up far enough to get our front off the roadway without our tailpipe hitting the berm. 
We were tired after 8 hours on the road and unlike the campground in South Dakota that didn’t work so we found another one 10 miles down the road, we knew there were no others nearby.  I went to the office and they gave us several other sites to look at.  One of them was perfect.  We are actually camping, sitting out under our awning during the day and having campfires at night.  There are two drawbacks to the site.  One is we don’t have a sewer hook-up, so I am doing something I haven’t done in 25 years when we had our pop-up camper – I wash the dishes in a pan and throw the water outside.  We are saving our gray water storage space for showers.

The other drawback for Mike is we cannot get local channels with our antenna (ABC, CBS, etc.) and the U.S. Open Golf Championship is on NBC this weekend.   Watching the tournament while sitting outside our RV is his idea of a perfect Father’s Day.

On Friday we went looking for a car wash and happened upon the home of Ulysses S. Grant.  And we weren’t even trying to find another presidential thing!  The home was given to Grant and his wife Julia in 1865 after the Civil War ended.  The last time Grant stayed in the house was 1880.

On Saturday Josh came to spend the weekend with us.  We had not seen him since the end of March, so the hugging went on for a while. 

“If you build it, he will come. . . “  And that we did.  The three of us drove back through Dubuque to the town of Dyersville, Iowa, where the Field of Dreams sits out in the countryside.  The Field of Dreams is the name of a movie filmed in 1988, starring Kevin Costner and James Earl Jones.  If you haven’t seen the movie, run, don’t walk, and rent it.  It is especially appropriate for Father’s Day viewing, where, in the phrase, “Hey Dad, do you want to play catch?”  lies all the love a son has for his father.

Don and Becky Lansing leased their family farm out to Universal Studios for the film’s location. This farm is authentic.  Don and his sisters were born in the farmhouse and it had been in their family for over 100 years.  Part of their real cornfield was mowed under and a ball diamond was built (the central theme to the movie).  Immediately after the movie’s release, people started coming to Iowa to find the farm, hoping to see the ball diamond.  The Lansing’s realized their farm was now part of movie lore and chose to keep the ball field.  Over 65,000 people make their way down the windy dirt road every year to spend time here.  There are no hotels, no restaurants, and no one offering to take your picture for a small fee.  It is a ball diamond with a small set of bleachers (to do the wave) surrounded by cornfields and the farmhouse.  Period.  The simplicity of it warms your heart.  We saw fathers throwing balls to their young sons trying to get a hit.  We saw grown men playing catch.  We saw a little girl, with her pink glove, playing catch with her Dad.  Everyone brought balls and gloves and bats except us. So we settled for walking in the cornfield, (Mike and Josh), running the bases (me) and just sitting in the bleachers watching families have fun.  There is no charge for any of these pleasures.  There is one small (and I mean small) souvenir shack, some picnic tables and several porta-pottys.  That’s it.  Playing catch is uniquely American  - and between fathers and sons and daughters, this simple act becomes a bonding experience.  I was so glad Josh came to see this with Mike.
The absolute best time to visit the Field of Dreams would be late August, when the corn is high and you could disappear into it like the players in the movie do. 

Looking back, I see a thread developed totally beyond any planning on my part.  It started in California when we spent the day in Hollywood.  The Hollywood Walk of Fame covers 15 city blocks, with stars every 3 feet.  I knew I wanted a picture of one of the stars on the sidewalk, but which one?  By sheer chance, I snapped a photo of Kevin Costner’s star.  Then in Deadwood, South Dakota, we went into a place called The Midnight Star, which was owned by Costner and contained lots of his movie memorabilia.  And while driving through Spearfish Canyon, we were right where he filmed “Dances With Wolves”.  Now we end our trip at The Field of Dreams – one of his classic movies.

“Is this heaven?”  “No, it’s Iowa.”

After buying a baseball and the movie at the souvenir stand, we needed to find a place with a TV to watch golf.  We had not been to downtown Galena yet, so decided to check it out.  “Neat little town” was an understatement on Josh’s part.  (he had never been to Galena, just heard about it in his travels for work).  If anyone wants to get married at the charming Stillman Inn, please invite me.  The grounds looked terrific.  Charming is the word I would use for the entire downtown area of Galena.  A high percentage of the buildings are listed on the National Historic Register.  This is one of those towns were you could just wander around, as every shop is unique.  We have been in several of these kinds of town over the last 3 months, and Mike never wanted to walk and browse.  But on Saturday, we found a restaurant with a TV, and Mike had Josh to keep him company, so I got to browse!  It’s a good thing I didn’t get to do this more often.  I’m a sucker for adorable clothing for our grandkids!

This brings us to today – Sunday.  Again, Happy Father’s Day.
Monday we will take one last step closer to home as we drive back to Michigan (a full day’s drive) to a favorite campground about an hour from our house.  There we will wash the RV (we don’t wash it at home because Ionia has really hard water) ONE LAST TIME, at least on this adventure, and pull into our driveway on Wednesday. 

I plan on wrapping this story up in one last post, if it is possible to put into any words beyond what I’ve already written!

                                             A good state sign - "Fields of Opportunities!"
                                        This sign greeted us on the east side of the Mississippi


                                               President Grant's home in Galena, Illinois


                                                    Mike relaxing at our perfect campsite


                                                      Entrance sign at the Lansing Farm


                              Josh and Mike in the bleachers with farmhouse in back.  Just like in the movie, these were the only bleachers.


Josh and Mike walking out of the cornfield.  This time of year the corn was only about ankle high.


                                                                   On first base



                                                 Aerial view of the Lansing Farm


                                                               The ball diamond


 
                                                     Downtown Galena, a town of 3,500

Wednesday, June 12, 2013

Eisenhower Museum


Within a week, we have jumped from having to wear several layers of clothes to stay warm to sweltering heat.  Our motorhome, our Jeep, and the places we visit while in Kansas City (except the ballpark) are all air-conditioned – you have to be thankful for the little things. . .

Tuesday we set off for Abilene, Kansas – which was over a two hour drive back west- to the Dwight D. Eisenhower Museum and Library.  Time flies when you are having fun and with Karen and Greg along, the drive wasn’t bad. 

The Eisenhower complex was just that, a collection of buildings and outdoor spaces that encompassed a large city block.  As with the Nixon library, Ike’s boyhood home was on the grounds.  It wasn’t moved there, it stands in its original location.  The Eisenhower family lived in this house from the time he was 8 years old in 1898 (Ike was born in Denison, Texas) until his mother passed away in 1946.  At that time, World War II had just ended and Eisenhower was a world famous 5 star general; the architect of D-Day as the Supreme Commander of Allied Forces.  His 5 brothers formed the Eisenhower Foundation to preserve their boyhood home and open it to the public.  This was way before there was even a thought of him running for president.  What foresight! 

Just because of where we parked, we walked first to The Meditation Chapel.  We hadn’t even been to the visitor center so we weren’t sure what this was.  It is a small chapel that is the final resting spot for Dwight and Mamie and their first-born son, Doud Dwight, who died of scarlet fever when he was 3.  Beyond the marble slabs that cover the graves are several rows of pews that do invite quiet reflection. 

We walked into the visitor center just as they were starting a film on Eisenhower’s life so we watched that and proceeded to the home.  There a volunteer gave us a tour of the home.  We could see all the rooms except the upstairs, but they had photos of the three bedrooms.  The furnishings are all original.  Ike’s parents had seven boys.  One died in infancy, so the six kids and their parents shared the spaces.  Arthur, as the oldest, always had his own room, which left the other 5 boys to share one bedroom. (Dwight was the 3rd oldest).  His mom, Ida, was a pacifist, and did not like the idea of her son entering the military.  But Ike wanted an education and attending West Point gave him the opportunity he couldn’t otherwise afford. A cute story, and a lesson for all mothers:  When the hero returned to Abilene after the war, the city threw a big homecoming for Ike.  A reporter said to Ida, “You must be so proud of your son.”  “I am,” Ida replied.  “Which one are you referring to?”

Just a short walk pass the house is the museum.  We found this presidential museum interesting because the greater part of the exhibits focused on his military career.  It was like taking a course in World War II.  Whereas Harry, Bess and Margaret Truman, as a family, were prominently featured in Truman’s museum the day before, there was very little on Ike’s personal life.  On our own, we kind of put two and two together and deduced that he and Bess had one other child, a son John (father of 4, including David Eisenhower, who is married to Julie Nixon).  There was a section on Mamie as First Lady with displays of her inaugural outfits, White House social events, etc.  And the last section of the museum did have videos of the Eisenhower grandchildren talking about Mamie, but that was about as personal as it got. 

After the war ended, Ike held several positions within the military.  He then became President of Columbia University in New York in 1948, his first civilian job since leaving Abilene.  When 1951 rolled around, President Truman urged Eisenhower to run for president as a Democrat in 1952.  Truman was ready to go home to Independence.  Ike had never professed a political affiliation, but in 1952 he declared himself a Republican and with a massive groundswell of support, he became the Republican candidate, defeating Adlai Stevenson in a landslide.

Highlights of his 8 years in office include: the building of the St. Lawrence Seaway, the formation of NASA, and the near eradication of polio with the widespread inoculation program using the vaccine developed by Jonas Salk.  We can all be thankful for one other achievement of the Eisenhower presidency:  the establishment of National Interstate Highway system.  We can testify as to how much easier it is to see this great country by traveling on well-maintained highways.
One section of the museum showcased life in the 50’s.  They had music and TV shows of the era playing on the devices from back then.  A replica of a typical 50’s living room reminded me of the old TV show “Happy Days”.  I took a picture of one of the info boards.  It explains the era far better than I could.

Ike’s post-presidency years were spent on his farm in Gettysburg, Pennsylvania, where he painted, read and wrote his memoirs.

Thinking I had missed it, I asked Mike and Karen and Greg where and how Eisenhower died.  They didn’t see anything on that either; just about the funeral.  We had to look on the Internet to learn that he died of congestive heart failure in Walter Reed Hospital in Washington, D.C. on March 28, 1969.  His wife Mamie Doud Eisenhower, whom he married on July 1, 1916, lived for ten more years and died in 1979.

Across from the museum, in a separate building, was the Eisenhower library.  Some presidential libraries are housed within the museum- on a different level or attached wing.  We haven’t been to them all, (not yet, anyway!) but I can only think of two other presidential museums that I have been to where the library is in a separate building:  Abraham Lincoln’s in Springfield (across the street) and our own Gerald Ford.  His museum is in his hometown of Grand Rapids and his library is on the grounds of his alma mater – the University of Michigan at Ann Arbor.  Libraries are used for research, so we just walked into the lobby (quite impressive, with marble columns) and didn’t go any further.  Heavens, no.  As it is, Mike gets through these museums in half the time I do.  Thinking he must not be looking at everything, I’ll say, “Did you see such and such?”  He always says yes, and backs it up with finishing what the info was.  And can you imagine how long these posts would be if I sat at a desk and poured over books and papers?  Nobody would read the blog!

The grounds also have a statue of General Eisenhower (in retirement he preferred to be addressed as such, instead of Mr. President) and 5 large concrete pylons representing his 5 star general status.

When we left, the temperature gauge on the dash of the Jeep read 101, which prompted a stop at the Abilene Dairy Queen before the drive back to Kansas City!

At the visitor center, Greg had bought a movie on the events leading up to D-Day so we had a relaxing morning on Wednesday, having breakfast and watching Tom Selleck’s portrayal of Ike.  All too soon, we had to take Greg and Karen back to the airport.  We had an absolutely terrific time while they were with us.

Thursday we will be headed to Iowa, our 16th state!

                                                      Outside of the Meditation Chapel


                                                     The burial site within the chapel


Engraved on one side of the burial site

                                                Karen and me at entrance to the museum


                             Karen reading the display "The American Dream" which many realized during Eisenhower's years as president.


               "Champion of Peace" statue of the General.  The base is surrounded by 5 stars




                                              Mike and Greg outside Ike's boyhood home



                            The entrance to the Mamie Eisenhower Gallery in the museum



                                         The Fabulous Fifties - a good description of the era